Shoe with inclined edge-stitching and method of making the same



D. E. I EvlN 2,500,613 sHoE wITH INCLINED EDGESTITCHING AND METHOD oFMAKING THE SAME Flled oct 1, 194e March 14, 1950 I.. Y 1 l..

rlllfflllllllllllllllll//IHA Patented Mar. 14, 1950 SHOE WITH INCLINEDEDGE-STITCHING AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME David E. Levin, Brooklyn,Y., assignor to Evins, Inc., New York, N. Y., a corporation of New YorkApplication October 1, 1946, Serial No. '100,556r

(Cl. {i6-19) 2 Claims.y 1 This invention relates to shoes and to amethod of making them. More particularly, the present invention relatesto shoes of the type which are provided with platform or middle solesand an edge cover for the latter.

One object of the present invention is to improve the fit andshape-retaining qualities of shoes of the above mentioned type.

Another object of the invention is to eliminate, the operation ofstitching a platform cover and insole to the shoe upper in manufacturinga shoev of the above indicated type.

A further object is to provide a platform shoe in which the edge coverfor the platform sole is an integral part of the shoe upper.

In accordance with one well known method of manufacturing shoes providedwith platform soles, the upper is cut to the proper size and shape andis thereafter stitched to an insole and to a platform cover to form anassembly in which a last is inserted for the operation of applying theplatform sole, the outer sole and various other parts of the shoe. Ashoe constructed in this manner is known as a California or slip-lastedshoe. One of the disadvantages of a slip-lasted shoe is that it is notwell adapted to retain its shape, by reason of the fact that the upperof the shoe is not subjected to the proper treatment which it wouldreceive if the shoe were lasted in accordance with the priorconventional lasting operations. rihis disadvantage is eliminated inaccordance with the present invention.

The above and other objects, features and advantages of this inventionwill be fully understood from the following description considered inconnection With the accompanying illustrative drawings.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a perspective View illustrating the operation of lasting theupper of the shoe and preliminarily securing the lasting allowance ofthe upper to the platform sole;

Fig. 2 is a bottom plan view of the upper and platform sole after saidupper and platform sole are permanently secured together;

Fig. 3 is a sectional view on the line 3--3 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a side view of a shoe made in accordance with the presentinvention;

Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 4 showing another form of theinvention.

In accordance with the present invention the upper I0 is lasted in theusual Way on a last L as indicated in Fig. 1. More particularly, theplatform sole I2 is placed on the bottom of the last from the last andthe assembly is stitched together .by a line of through stitching i6.Also, the stitch.

ingr operation may be carried out without removing the last. Said lineof stitching may extend completely around the shoe but as here shownpreferably extends from a point i3 near the heel portion of the assemblyforwardly around the tip of the shoe to a point 28 at the other side ofthe shoe near the heel portion of the assembly. As illustrated in Figs.3 and 4 the line of stitching I6 is run through the platform sole I2 andpenetrates the upper i0 along two lines which are f spaced verticallyfrom each other as well as laterally of each other as indicated at 16aand iSb. The line ia at which the stitching penetrates the upper islocated substantially at the' crease line of the shoe. while the lineIto at which the stitching penetrates the lasting allowance 20 of theupper at the bottom of the shoe is disposed between the inner orterminal edge of the lasting' allowance or marginal edge portion of theupper and the outer peripheral edge of the shoe. In

' other words. the stitching is directed through the upper and throughthe platform sole l2 at an angle to the plane of the upper and lowersurfaces of said platform sole, i. e., to the maior plane of said solepreferably at an angle of 45, with the stitching running through theplatform sole from the edge of the latter at the upper surfe ce of theplatform sole to the line indicated at Mib where the stitching isdisposed inwardly of the peripheral edge of the platform sole andinwardly of the terminal edge of the lasting allowance 20 of the upper.It will be observed that the upper l!) includes an integral portion 28which provides an edge cover for the platform sole l2 said platform solecovering portion 25 extending completely around the shoe.

After the stitching operation an outsole 28 is applied and secured inposition adhesively or in any other suitable way and as illustrated inFig. 4 in respect to the stvle of shoe illustrated a heel 3D isattached. Thereafter the shoe may be nished in the usual Way. It will beunderstood that a sock lining may be inserted within the shoe Asindicated in Fig. 1, the upper i9 includes a portion 32 at the heel partof the shoe which is folded over and adhesively secured to the uppersurface of the platform sole I 2 to provide a finished appearance at theopen heel part of the shoe when the latter as illustrated in Fig. 4 isof the open heel type, It will be understood, however, that the presentinvention is notlimited to shoes of this style but may be utilizedgenerally in the manufacture of shoes, those which are closed at theheel as well as in all other styles of shoes. Further, it will beunderstood that the shoe canbe of any style in respect to the heelthereof, for example, the shoe may be provided with a heel of the wedgetype, or with a high heel, or with any other type of heel; or said shoemay be of the type having a at bottom formed in any well known way asfor example, a wedge which includes a heel having a shank part extendingto the ball line of the shoe, or the shoe may be made without a heel asin the case of a shoe in which the outsole and platform sole aresubstantially flat throughout the length of the shoe. Also it will beunderstood that it is within the scope of the present invention toutilize a thin middle sole, similar to an insole, instead of thecomparatively thick platform sole l2, particularly in the form of theinvention illustrated in Fig. 5 wherein the stitchi ing i6 runs throughthe outsole as well as through theplatform sole.

While I have shown and described the pref ferred embodiment of myinvention, it will be understood that the latter may be embodied iotherwise than as herein illustrated and de- 1 scribed and that variouschanges in the details of construction, in the arrangement of parts andin the method may be made without departing from the underlying idea orprinciples of the invention within the scope of the appended claims.Having thus described my invention, what I claim and desire to obtain byLetters Patent is:

l. The method of making shoes which comprises placing a sole on thebottom of the last and lasting an upper to said sole with a portion ofthe upper covering the peripheral edge of said sole and with the lastingallowance of the upper secured to the marginal edge portion of said soleat the lower surface thereof, and stitching the upper and said soletogether by a line of stitching running through said edge coveringportion of said upper, through said sole and through the lastingallowance of the upper in a plane inclined to the bottom of the shoefrom a line adjacent the upper surface of said sole externally of saidupper to a line located inwardly of the peripheral edge of the shoebottom.

2. In a shoe, a platform sole, an upper having an integral portionextending over and covering the peripheral edge of said sole andterminating in a portion overlying the marginal edge portion of saidsole at the bottom thereof, and a line of stitching running through saidperipheral edge covering portion of said upper adjacent the uppersurface of said sole penetrating said sole through said peripheral edgethereof and running through said overlying portion of the upper belowsaid sole, said stitching penetrating through said parts in a planeinclined to the bottom of the shoe from a line above the bottom of theshoe and externally of said upper, and adjacent the upper surfaceof saidsole, to a line located inwardly of the peripheral edge of the shoebottom, and an outer sole secured to said first mentioned sole and tosaid overlying portion of the upper by said line of stitching.

. DAVID E. LEVIN..

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in thele of thispatent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS OTHER REFERENCES American Shoemaking, page 18,November 26, 1919.

